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Wirecutter's upgrade pick: a heavily insulated, propane-or-wood oven that made its most gorgeous pies. It costs about $2,300 before a stand or cover, weighs 136 lb, and wood mode needs pricey hardwood and constant tending.
Top complaints
- Very expensive, with extras on top
Wirecutter: about $2,300, plus a cover it considers essential (about $80), an optional stand (about $500) and a $100 door for long roasts.
Source: Wirecutter - Huge and heavy
It weighs about 136 lb (the XL about 161 lb), took several people to unbox (Gozney recommends four), and needs a large, very sturdy non-combustible surface.
Source: Wirecutter, Gozney official page - Fussy wood fuel; bone color stains
Wirecutter says wood mode needs pricey precut hardwood (about $15 per session) and frequent feeding. The light bone colorway looked tarnished right away. Serious Eats found the XL Gen 2 cooked tops faster than bottoms, so it needed constant turning.
Source: Wirecutter, Serious Eats
What owners love
- Gorgeous wood-fired pies
Wirecutter found its wood-fired pizzas especially gorgeous, with stone and air temperatures close to Neapolitan guidelines; on gas, pies cooked in about a minute.
Source: Wirecutter - Switches fuels easily and holds heat
The fixed burner and grate mean no reconfiguring between propane and wood. Heavy insulation helped it regain about 100°F within five minutes.
Source: Wirecutter - Spacious, with a built-in thermometer
It fits up to a 16-inch pie, has extra headroom for cast-iron cooking, and shows ambient temperature, which Wirecutter found helpful.
Source: Wirecutter, Gozney official page
- You need to move or store it
- You're on any kind of budget
- You don't want to buy precut hardwood
- Wood-fired Neapolitan pies
- Serious cooks who also roast in cast iron
- A permanent outdoor-kitchen centerpiece
Scores (tap for why)
What experts say
- Wirecutter (NYT): Upgrade pick (with the XL Gen 2): great for novices and experts; the downsides are size, price and fussy wood fuel.
- Tom's Guide: Best premium oven (the XL Gen 2 version): restaurant-quality Neapolitan pies and true dual fuel, but very heavy and costly.